Showing posts with label MATERIALS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label MATERIALS. Show all posts

COMPACT FLUORESCENT LIGHTS

There are a few important things
you should know about compact
fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs).
Very small quantities of mercury* are found in all
fluorescent light bulbs, including CFLs as well as the
types of fluorescent lights that have been in use in
offices, schools, commercial and retail establishments,
and residential basements for decades.
 CFLs contain a tiny amount of mercury, typically
1/100th the amount found in old-fashioned
mercury fever thermometers.
 CFLs provide important benefits in reduced energy
use (and lower energy costs), reduced greenhouse
gas emissions, and reduced local air pollution from
electric power generation.
 Unbroken CFLs pose no threat of
mercury exposure.

Drain-Water Heat Recovery (DWHR)

Any hot water that goes down the drain carries away energy with it. That's typically 80–90% of the energy used to heat water in a home. Drain-water (or greywater) heat recovery systems capture this energy to preheat cold water entering the water heater or going to other water fixtures. Illustration of a drain-water heat recovery system. Water flows from a faucet down the drain, which is wrapped with a copper coil called a heat exchanger. Cold water flows through the coil and is heated by the warm water going down the drain. The heated water in the coil then flows to the plumbing fixtures and the water heater, where it then flows through the faucet and is used as drain water to heat new clean water flowing through the system.

How It Works

Drain-water heat recovery technology works well with all types of water heaters, especially with demand and solar water heaters. Also, drain-water heat exchangers can recover heat from the hot water used in showers, bathtubs, sinks, dishwashers, and clothes washers. They generally have the ability to store recovered heat for later use. You'll need a unit with storage capacity for use with a dishwasher or clothes washer. Without storage capacity, you'll only have useful energy during the simultaneous flow of cold water and heated drain water, like while showering.

Some storage-type systems have tanks containing a reservoir of clean water. Drain water flows through a spiral tube at the bottom of the heat storage tank. This warms the tank water, which rises to the top. Water heater intake water is preheated by circulation through a coil at the top of the tank.

Non-storage systems usually have a copper heat exchanger that replaces a vertical section of a main waste drain. As warm water flows down the waste drain, incoming cold water flows through a spiral copper tube wrapped tightly around the copper section of the waste drain. This preheats the incoming cold water that goes to the water heater or a fixture, such as a shower.

By preheating cold water, drain-water heat recovery systems help increase water heating capacity. This increased capacity really helps if you have an undersized water heater. You can also lower your water heating temperature without affecting the capacity.

Cost and Installation

Prices for drain-water heat recovery systems range from $300 to $500. You'll need a qualified plumbing and heating contractor to install the system. Installation will usually be less expensive in new home construction. Paybacks range from 2.5 to 7 years, depending on how often the system is used.

The Costs of Not Building Green

Despite the narrowing gap in cost between green building and traditional “to-code” building, most builders and home buyers still perceive the green option to be significantly more expensive. The reality is that due to increased builder education and an influx of affordable green building products, a building can be built green within the same budget as a non-green building. According to Clark Wilson, CEO of Austin based Green Builders, Inc., “It’s our job as builders to find those green products that don’t drive up the price of the home.” Rick Hunter of the St. Louis green building firm Sage Homebuilders agrees: “With proper planning and a little experience, building green, even certified green, can be done for about the same cost. We are building certified green homes at the highest levels of certification for less than 1% cost increase.“ For an informative breakdown on how green buildings cost from 0 to 2% more than non-green buildings, check out “The True Costs of Building Green” from the folks at Buildings.com.

Now that green building is an affordable option, it’s time to change the way we frame the affordability debate. Too long have supporters of green building been on the defensive, forced to justify the costs of building more energy efficient, healthier, more sustainable homes. Instead of focusing on the costs of making your building green, let’s talk about the costs of not building green.

Energy

For those strictly interested in a financial reason to go green, the energy savings of a green building speak for themselves. With the help of the EPA’s ENERGY STAR program, advances in energy efficiency have resulted in savings of 40 to 60% over non-green buildings. Greater focus on appropriately sized HVAC systems, tight construction and ducts, effective insulation, and energy efficient windows can save a significant amount of energy and money. Add in the water savings from low-flow fixtures, tankless water heaters, very efficient appliances, greywater systems, water-friendly landscaping, and rainwater collection systems and it’s clear how wasteful a non-green building can be. Save a little bit of money now by ignoring these green options and you could be throwing away money for years.

Health

You wouldn’t buy baby bottles with potentially harmful chemicals or toys with toxic paint, so why would you buy a whole house with both? Paints, adhesives, and caulks can all contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs,) the greatest causes of indoor air pollution in the home, which have been tied to increased asthma rates. Wood products in the home can contain urea-formaldehyde, a known carcinogen that is banned in Canada and Europe and soon will be on its way out in California. The Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory studied indoor air pollution in homes and “found moderate to strong increases in respiratory and allergic health effects among children in homes with higher concentrations of selected VOCs.”

Companies that still manufacture products with urea-formaldehyde or other VOCs continue to do so because it costs them less to produce and consumers continue to choose the less expensive, but less healthy, choice. I’d like to think this is because of a lack of awareness of the health risks of such chemicals, rather than a conscious choice to expose their families to toxic chemicals. A green building not only reduces, if not eliminates, such toxic chemicals, it constantly cleans the air through efficient HVAC and ventilation systems.

The potential health risks of non-green buildings are reason enough for many to choose to build green.

Sustainability

Third in the green trinity is sustainability, the environmental cost of your building project. Green builders start by significantly reducing waste on building sites. While building materials that are not recycled or made from renewable materials might seem less expensive, the cost to the environment must be considered. And it’s not just the sustainability of the product that should be considered, but the company’s manufacturing process as well. Naysayers point out that individuals can do little to nothing to affect the environment, but if consumers begin to favor environmentally friendly products made from companies that have cleaned up their manufacturing process, including reducing waste and using renewable energy, then other companies will be forced to follow suit. Companies that have earned the Cradle to Cradle certification represent the height of sustainability.

If products were forced to label their environmental impact and embodied energy, consumers would think twice about many products. Green builders seek out durable materials that leave a lighter impact on the environment.

Parting Thoughts

The energy, health, and environmental costs make traditional, “to-code” building much too expensive. It will also be expensive for the builders themselves. As Rick Hunter points out, “Most builders have still not fully realized that we are entering a whole new era of building; the builders that make the changes now will be the ones that prosper, those that take the wait and see approach, will ultimately be hurt.”

The builders I know don’t like to be associated with anything shoddy or cheap, much less unhealthy, so it’s only a matter of time before green building practices are adopted as the norm. The term “builder quality” is used to describe the cheapest and lowest quality material available while still within code. Isn’t it time for builders to take back the term “builder quality” and make it something positive? Here’s your new slogan: Green: The New Builder Quality.

Recessed Lights and Greenwash

Recessed Ceiling Lights and PendantsRecessed can lighting is a familiar method of lighting rooms. Rather than having fixtures protruding into the space, the light source is hidden in a recess in the ceiling, reducing glare. But, when the ceiling above is insulated, the can light fixture is a potential source of air leaks and thermal bridging.

I recently got a press release from a company advertising a product to quickly and easily “convert” recessed can lights to a pendant light look. But, after a brief look, it turns out to be a particularly bad case of greenwash.

Like sticking a ‘Hybrid’ label on an SUV to make it more efficient

The company advertises its product “reduces air leaks” around the recessed light, but there is no gasket or other means of sealing the cover plate, so it is unlikely to do much of anything in terms of reducing air leaks out of the box. More to the point, there is nothing that this kit does that addresses the original problem of an inefficient light fixture creating an insulation gap in the ceiling. In that way, this is like sticking a ‘Hybrid’ label on an SUV, or like putting a hybrid shell on top of a non-hybrid chassis and thinking that would make it a more efficient vehicle. It makes it look like the other, but underneath, none of the key issues have been addressed.

Their greenwash also notes “energy efficient lighting,” though there is no mention of how this increases efficiency. In fact, a recessed can fixture can be more efficient than a standard incandescent. Halogen lights are commonly available for recessed can lights, and are more efficient than standard incandescent bulbs. Rather than using the recommended 100 watt incandescent bulb the manufacturer suggests with the conversion kit pendant, a 60 watt halogen bulb would produce nearly the same light level and would last slightly longer than the conventional bulb. But halogen lights are generaly less attractive for direct view. The one pendant light fixture in my own house is one of the few places where I have not replaced an incandescent bulb with a compact fluorescent, and that is because it is directly visible.

Proper selection of recessed can lights

Greenwash aside, there are two kinds of recessed can lights: IC fixtures and Non-IC fixtures. Non-IC fixtures must have insulation kept from directly coming in contact to prevent overheating and the risk of fire. The IC fixture (the IC stands for “insulation contact”) is completely sealed and can have insulation placed right against it and on top of it. IC fixtures are also generally built tighter, with seals to reduce or prevent air leaks. In an insulated ceiling, an IC fixture should always be used, to allow the insulation against the fixture without any gaps that will contribute to heat loss. Non-IC recessed light fixtures are cheaper to produce, so naturally they are often found in homes where builders have cut corners to save money.

If you are building new, or are renovating, be sure to use IC fixtures where appropriate. But if the ceiling above a recessed fixture is another floor, the non-IC fixtures are adequate, and IC fixtures are not necessary. Removing and replacing a non-IC fixture in a ceiling is a good step to take as part of an overall home improvement to tighten the house against air and energy leaks.

If you like the look of pendants, this does offer an inexpensive (and reversible) method for getting the look without getting involved in a more extensive renovation. But don’t fool yourself into thinking that this is going to be a big energy savings step for you.


Sustainable Flooring

There’s more than just bamboo when it comes to sustainable flooring. More green alternatives are available now for several types of flooring material. So, whether you’re looking to re-carpet the living room or want to re-do your kitchen, here are a few things to consider when thinking about flooring.

Buy recycled content or renewable materials.

  • Bamboo and cork are renewable resources, as is wood when it is sustainably harvested.
  • Look for carpets made from recycled materials or natural fibers. Rubber flooring is also made from recycled materials and can be recycled, or down-cycled (made into another product) afterwards.
  • There are many types of all-natural linoleum available, and tiles can be manufactured with recycled content.
  • Keep in mind that some materials need sealants or glues during the installation process that may not be so green, such as cork or stone. Others, like bamboo and wood, may contain additives such as formaldehyde, or are made of composites with undesireable materials such as vinyl, including some cork products and linoleum.

Look for salvaged materials.

  • Flooring materials such as wood, stone and tile can often be found at building supply salvage centers. They may need some refurbishing and prep, but will be cheaper and greener than buying them new.

Maintenance and upkeep. This is a common consideration in all flooring decisions, but is even more important when thinking about green choices. For example:

  • High trafficked areas will need a more durable material, but will also need to be cleaned more frequently. You’ll have to decide what types of cleaning products will be needed and if those are very eco-friendly.
  • Wall-to-wall carpeting is a magnet for dust, dustmites and mold, decreasing the indoor air quality. An alternative could be using carpet tiles or area rugs.


The Green Home Guide lists several tips in helping you consider sustainable flooring for your home, pros and cons of different products, and a buyers guide to green flooring materials.

Additional Information and Resources:

Green Home Guide - 8 Tips for Selecting Healthy and Environmentally Sound Flooring

Green Home Guide - Navigating the Flooring Thicket: Find the Greenest Way to Meet Your Needs

Green Home Guide - Buyer’s Guide to Green Flooring Materials

Care2 - Salvaged Wood Flooring

Care2 - Rethinking Carpet

Green Living Ideas - Flooring


Looking for Style in All the Green Places

Lately I’m a bit obsessed by home decorating with reclaimed goods like old doorknobs, ornate metal heating grates, and odd hanging crystals from a long-gone chandelier. Sure, it would make more sense if I actually had a house — at the moment, my new husband and I are squeezing into our 600 square feet, one-bedroom apartment — but one day soon we will own a home, and when that day comes, I’ll be able to spread out and complete all the projects I have going in my head.

Meanwhile, I’ve found that trolling architectural salvage yards and house-part recycling centers is a fascinating diversion. You can find some amazing ways to decorate your home in completely unique (and green) ways, but you can also find perfectly good double-hung windows, newel posts, kitchen cabinets, big pieces of wood flooring, and bathroom vanities (from this century, even!).

read more

The kitchen is the busiest room in the house, and the biggest energy user.


You can lower your monthly energy bill and contribute to a cleaner environment without making major changes or buying expensive energy-saving gadgets. Simple changes, and thought given to energy reduction, will make a significant difference.
Dishwashing

  • If washing dishes by hand, fill one basin with warm soapy water and the other with cold rinse water. This saves much more water than leaving the cold water running for rinsing.
  • If you're using the dishwasher, pre-rinse dishes with cold water. Be sure machine is full, but not overloaded.
  • Turn off automatic air-dry switch, and let dishes dry by air. If your machine doesn't have an air-dry switch, turn off the control knob after the final rinse and prop the door open a bit so the dishes will dry faster.
  • If a small load, avoid using "Rinse-Hold". This uses 3 to 7 gallons of hot water each time it's used.
  • Check the manual that came with your dishwasher for the manufacturer's recommendations on water temperature; many have internal heating elements that allow you to set the water heater in your home to a lower temperature (115 degrees).

  • Microwave

  • Microwaves use between one-fifth and one-half as much energy as conventional stoves.
  • Microwaves are most efficient at cooking small portions and for defrosting.
  • Food cooks faster when placed on the outer edges of a rotating tray rather than in the center, allowing more microwaves to interact with the food.
  • Food cooks faster in a microwave as the surface-to-volume ratio increases. When cooking potatoes, for example, thinner slices will cook faster than cubed or quartered sections.
  • During warm weather, microwave use minimizes radiant heat build-up from the kitchen.
  • This table from the Consumer Guide to Home Energy Savings compares the cost of cooking a casserole in several ways. It assumes the cost of gas is $.60 a therm, and electricity is $.08 a kWh.


    ....Appliance..................Temperature .... ...Time...... ... ... Energy...... ... Cost ....Electric Oven...................... 350..............1 hour............... 2.0 kWh.........$.16
    ....Electric Convection Oven.... 325.............45 minutes…….. 1.39 kWh........$.11
    ....Gas Oven........................... 350..............1 hour..………… 112 therm…...$.07
    ....Electric Frying Pan.............. 420 .............1 hour....................9 kWh.......$.07
    ....Toaster Oven ......................425............50 minutes..............95 kWh.......$.08
    ....Electric Crockpot .................200.............7 hours...................7 kWh.......$.06
    ....Microwave Oven................ "High" ........15 minutes..............36 kWh.......$.03

    Gas Stoves, Electric Ranges

  • Gas stoves with an electric ignition (piezo) will use 40% less gas than one with a continuous pilot light. Burner flames on gas stoves should be blue. If flame is yellow, the ports need to be unclogged or adjusted. Ports can often be cleaned with a pipe cleaner.
  • When using the oven, try to reduce the number of times you open the door while cooking. Each time the door is opened, the stove loses about 1/4th of its heat.
  • Match pot size to burner size on your stove top. Heat is lost and energy is wasted if burner size is larger than pot size. Also, clean range-top burners and reflectors to better reflect the heat, and save energy.
  • Use pressure cookers. They use 50-75 percent less energy than ordinary cookware.
  • On electric stovetops, use flat-bottomed pans that make full contact with the elements.
  • If you cook on an electric range, you can turn off the burners or the oven before the cooking is finished, because it will take several minutes for the burners to lose their heat.
  • Induction cooking uses 90% of the energy produced compared to only 55% for a gas burner and 65% for traditional electric ranges.
  • Induction cooking is based on magnetic fields: each ‘element’ (an induction coil) generates a magnetic field that induces heat in steel cookware placed on top of it. In essence, the pot becomes the element that cooks the food, so the cooktop surface doesn’t get as hot as other cooktops. Induction cooktops have the same instant control as gas and are the fastest of all cooktop types to heat and cook food. more info

  • Sun Ovens

  • Sun ovens are the most energy-efficient cooking appliance. These solar powered ovens require no fuel yet can cook anything you can cook in a conventional stove. Of course they must be used outdoors in the sun. For summer cooking they also save energy by keeping your kitchen from heating up. more info
  • Hybrid solar ovens are also available which have an electric backup which allows the oven to be used when sunlight is not available. Even when using the electric backup, these units use 75% less electricity than conventional electric range ovens. more info
  • Disposal Unit

  • If your sink has a disposal unit, use cold water when operating. This saves energy used to heat the water, and is more effective at removing grease. Grease will solidify under cold water and become more easily ground up and washed away. You can give it a quick final rinse with hot water.
  • Faucet Aerator

  • Installing a $5 faucet aerator is the most effective water conservation measure you can do in your kitchen. The lower flow is barely perceptible, though it will take longer to fill large pots. Water consumption and the cost of heating the water can be reduced by as much as 50%. Click here for more information on low-flow faucet aerators and shower heads.

  • Sun Ovens

  • Sun ovens are the most energy-efficient cooking appliance. These solar powered ovens require no fuel yet can cook anything you can cook in a conventional stove. Of course they must be used outdoors in the sun. For summer cooking they also save energy by keeping your kitchen from heating up. more info
  • Hybrid solar ovens are also available which have an electric backup which allows the oven to be used when sunlight is not available. Even when using the electric backup, these units use 75% less electricity than conventional electric range ovens. more info
  • Disposal Unit

  • If your sink has a disposal unit, use cold water when operating. This saves energy used to heat the water, and is more effective at removing grease. Grease will solidify under cold water and become more easily ground up and washed away. You can give it a quick final rinse with hot water.

  • Faucet Aerator

  • Installing a $5 faucet aerator is the most effective water conservation measure you can do in your kitchen. The lower flow is barely perceptible, though it will take longer to fill large pots. Water consumption and the cost of heating the water can be reduced by as much as 50%. Click here for more information on low-flow faucet aerators and shower heads.


  • Refrigerator

  • Vacuum the coils on the back of your refrigerator twice a year to maximize efficiency.
  • Leave enough space between your refrigerator and the wall behind, as well as space to either side, so air can circulate around the condenser coils. Trapped heat increases energy consumption.
  • Check the door gasket occasionally to be sure the seal isn't broken by debris or caked on food. Test by closing the door over a dollar bill so that it's half in and half outside of the refrigerator. If you can pull the bill out easily, the latch may need adjusting or the seal may need replacing.
  • Avoid frost build-up in the freezer compartment. Frost build-up should be less than 1/4 inch in thickness. Excess frost build-up reduces the energy efficiency of the unit.

  • Be sure the refrigerator isn't located next to heat sources such as heat vents, stove or dishwasher. Even direct sun will lower efficiency - block it if possible.
  • Check temperature settings. Recommended temperatures are 37 - 40 degrees for the fresh food compartment and 5 degrees for the freezer compartment.
  • Stand-alone freezers for long-term storage should be kept at 0 degrees.
  • To check the refrigerator temperature, place an appliance thermometer in a glass of water in the center of the refrigerator and check the reading after 24 hours. To test the freezer temperature, place thermometer between frozen packages and check the reading after 24 hours.
  • A new, more efficient refrigerator can typically save you $70–80 per year and will pay for itself in about nine years. Older models commonly use an annual average of over 1,700 kWh, while equivalent models now use fewer than 700 kWh. This can reduce your carbon-dioxide emissions by over 1,000 pounds a year.
  • The refrigerator is the single biggest power consumer in most households. See our page on Energy-Efficient Appliances, which has more information on refrigerator

  • Automatically Preheat Water to Save Energy

    showerUsually when we are talking about plumbing fixtures for green building we are dealing with something that conserves water. But some plumbing devices can contribute to energy savings, as well.

    When you are in the shower, the hot water from the shower strikes your body and transfers some heat before it falls away. But most of the heat in that water simply goes down the drain. Reportedly, 80 to 90 percent of the energy used to heat water for the shower is lost down the drain.

    A drain water heat recovery unit (DWHR) transfers heat from water running down the drain to cold water going to the water heater. This preheats the water so that the heater is starting with warmer water, and thus needs less energy. A DWHR unit can save as much as 25-30% of the energy used for water heating, and payback periods range from 3 to 7 years, depending on use patterns.

    The principle is rather simple. Cold water coming in to the building goes through a coil that is wrapped around the main drain pipe. Hot water running down the drain transfers its heat to the incoming water and preheats it before it goes to the water heater. As hot water is drawn from the water heater, it draws in cold water to be heated. If that water going to the heater can be pre-heated, then less energy is needed to heat it to the required temperature.

    This is true for both tank-style water heaters, as well as for tankless water heaters. But, because tankless water heaters can only raise the temperature of the water by a certain degree range, having the warmer input helps further boost the output temperature they are able to provide. Water heat recovery also makes a great deal of sense in conjunction with solar hot-water systems.

    Because the DWHR unit is typically installed on the main drain stack, it is not typically something for a do-it-yourself installation. A plumber will have to cut out a portion of the drain pipe and install the DWHR unit, as well as routing the water supply to the water heater through the DWHR. This is one reason that makes this less of a retrofit option for many homes. However, there are no moving parts, and once installed, this system will passively reclaim heat from the wastewater going down the drain any time warmer water is going down the drain.

    Not every household is suited to using a The best application of a water heat recovery unit is in conjunction with a shower. Bathwater sits in the tub, so, with nothing going down the drain during the time the tub is filling, no preheating takes place. And then, when the tub is drained, there is usually no other hot-water demand, meaning that the heat is lost instead of being recaptured.

    In new construction, where the water heater can be located close to the main wastewater line, a DWHR makes real sense. Also, for commercial applications in hotels, apartment buildings, and other places where large amounts of hot water are used, a DWHR can make a difference in the amount of energy needed for water heating.

    Further information:

    GFX Drainwater Heat Recovery

    Written by Philip Proefrock

    Green Kitchens on a Budget

    455372_kitchen_details_2.jpgRemodeling a kitchen is an expensive process, and those who seek environmentally friendly products but are operating under a tight budget may feel they can’t afford to go green. Fortunately, the opposite is true. While there are many excellent choices for those for whom money is no object, some lesser known and much less expensive options offer the same environmental benefits. With a little knowledge and research, remodeling green can be easy and within your budget.

    When seeking green kitchen cabinets, countertops, and flooring, the three areas to consider are materials, emissions, and whether it is a regional product. Each of these can have environmental advantages, and while finding products that qualify in multiple areas is certainly possible, some seek a kitchen with all recycled products or one with the minimum of harmful emissions. It is up to you to determine which area of green is most important to you.

    Cabinets

    Your cabinets will be the toughest part of your kitchen to bring under budget, as Forest Sustainability Council certified wood cabinets - or those made from recycled wood particle board - can get expensive. You can seek out local custom cabinet makers who use water based glues and adhesives (to limit the amount of harmful formaldehyde,) but chances are they will come at a premium. An affordable option can be found among the members of the Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association’s Environmental Stewardship Program. An article on the program, including a list of companies, can be found here. Cabinet makers in the program lower the environmental impact of their products through their manufacturing process, often with dramatic results. They are encouraged to lower the formaldehyde level of their cabinets, but you will have to do a little research to find if the KCMA-ESP cabinets offered at your local kitchen and bath dealer are lower emitting cabinets. Some companies in the program, like Kitchen Kompact, offer only a limited selection of styles and colors, but are some of the least expensive cabinets on the market.

    Countertops

    Easily the least expensive green countertop available is a recycled particle board laminate countertop, sealed with a water-based glue. Countertop fabricators are only now starting to realize the demand for these, as green builders love the combination of no emissions, recycled product, and very low price tag. They should price out at about a quarter of the cost of other, more popular green countertops. A growing number of recycled particle board manufacturers, like SkyBlend, Vesta, and Boise Evergreen, are popping up to fill the demand. For more information on green countertops, click here.

    Flooring

    You can’t beat linoleum for its combination of low cost and high environmental benefits. Linoleum is made from linseed oil, which is a renewable resource, and is hypoallergenic. It’s easy to keep clean and has evolved into cool looking patterns. When purchasing your linoleum, make sure it is true linoleum and not a “linoleum-like” polyvinyl flooring, which isn’t made from linseed oil and may contain higher quantities of semi-toxic flame retardant.

    Plumbing

    When it comes to plumbing, just keep it simple. You can get an inexpensive stainless steel drop-in sink and be comforted by the fact that all stainless steel made today contains at least 50% and up to 80% recycled steel. If you are so inclined, many faucets can be fit with an inexpensive aerator that cuts water usage.

    Appliances

    Always seek the ENERGY STAR rating on your appliances. To save money, you can limit the bells and whistles on your appliances but still keep the energy savings. Many are now using an inexpensive device that turns off all appliances with one switch, further reducing energy usage. You can also wire overhead lights to their own switches so you can only turn on the lights you need, rather than all of them every time.

    Miscellaneous

    If you are going to splurge on one area, get a vent that vents to the outside. This will greatly increase your indoor air quality. Many tile companies offer beautiful and inexpensive recycled glass tile, or, if you are artistic, create your own tile backsplash with a random collection of tile pieces and close-out tile.

    If you are determined to remodel green, don’t let budget constraints get in your way. The products you want are out there and in your budget. It may take a little detective work on your part to find them all, but that’s part of the fun, isn’t it?

    Elements of Green Building

    Green Building is essentially about recognizing and better understanding the relationship building design has with the environment, and building occupants; and then ensuring that design maximizes human and environmental health. Though the green building knowledge base is vast, knowing a little about the following five topics will give you a decent understanding of green building.

    Site Selection - a building's orientation to the sun, wind, and weather can significantly alter building energy use. Treating building sites with care can help improve or restore stressed eco-systems, improve drainage and quality of life for building occupants.

    Energy Efficiency - The construction and operation of buildings accounts for 37% of all energy use and 68% of all electricity demand in the United States. By properly insulating and sealing homes, installing energy efficient heating, cooling, hot water systems, and appliances, and taking advantage of renewable energy sources like solar, wind, and geothermal we can dramatically reduce the buildings' impact on the environment including reducing buildings' contribution to global warming.

    Water Conservation - Over 12% of our fresh water supply is consumed in buildings. By installing water saving faucets, toilets, and showerheads and by capturing and using rainwater and "grey" water from our roofs and tubs, we can significantly reduce our demand for fresh water.

    Materials and Resources - Construction, both new and renovation, consumes large quantities of materials. Green building carefully considers the environmental impact of building materials. What is the product made of? Does it contain harmful or toxic chemicals? Does the product contain recycled content or can it be easily recycled? Can the product be harvested at a sustainable rate? These are some of the critical questions green builders must ask before choosing building materials.

    Indoor Environmental Quality (IEQ) - Students perform better, workers are more productive, and occupants are generally happier and healthier in buildings with superior indoor environmental quality (IEQ). IEQ primarily considers daylight, air quality, and views (to the outside).

    Raising the New Roof

    From Plants to Polymers, It’s All Going Green


    By Alan Richman

    Living roofs provide beauty in unexpected places.
    Green roofs are nothing new. In their book, Planting Green Roofs and Living Walls, Nigel Dunnett and Nöel Kingsbury report that the idea has “been [around] for centuries.” Historically, say the authors, people in present-day Turkey, Iraq and Iran built homes of mud or earth with grass-covered rooftops.

    The ancient practice is enjoying a resurgence. In the U.S., noteworthy green examples include the Pentagon, Chicago’s City Hall, a Ford assembly plant in Dearborn, Michigan and nu-merous buildings in Portland, Oregon.

    Roofs: The Last Frontier

    There are many benefits to a “living” roof, says Steven W. Peck, founder and president of Green Roofs for Healthy Cities, a Toronto-based association. “The roofscapes of our cities are the last urban frontier—from 15 percent to 35 percent of the total land area—and the green roof industry can turn these wasted spaces into a force for cleaner air, cleaner water, energy savings, cooling, beauty and recreation,” he says.

    But given the importance of curb appeal, particularly in today’s turbulent real estate market, not everyone will want to cultivate their rooftops. Zoning laws could be an obstacle, sloped roofs pose challenges, and even flat roofs require a rugged, waterproof, puncture-resistant membrane to protect the living space and its contents from seepage and leaks. Then there is the increased cost and weight of many green roofs.

    There are alternatives to an overhead garden, including a “cool” roof. Accor-ding to the Cool Roof Rating Council (CRRC) “a cool roof reflects and emits the sun’s heat back to the sky...‘Cool-ness’ is measured by two properties, solar reflectance and thermal emittance.”

    Long life should be a goal of all eco-friendly roofing. Tom Hutchinson, a principal in Hutchinson Design Group and a technical consultant for the EPDM Roofing Association, says, “The best environmental solution is a sustainable roof system, one that can last 30 years or more. There are way too many poorly designed cool and garden roofs that are consequently not environmentally friendly at all.”

    Possibly the longest-lived roofs are those made of slate, though the material can be expensive to work on. The Slate Roofing Contractors Association reports that sea green slates can last anywhere from 110 to 120 years, de-pending on the quarry of origin. Green slate from Vermont, they say, “could last 200 years or more.”

    A Long Life, then Recycled

    To the extent possible, the roofing material should come from recycled products and be recyclable at the end of its life span. Metal is one option. Scott Kriner, president of Green Metal Consulting, says, “A metal roof can be energy efficient, contain a high amount of recycled material, be inert, have low overall life cycle costs and be highly durable.” In addition, he says, metal roofs are “ideal for catching rainwater.”

    Weight is critical in roofing materials. According to Frank Lane, president of ArmorLite Roofing Technology, lighter weight contributes to safety not only at the time of installation but in the event of fire, earthquake or high winds. Environ-mentally, he claims, a lighter roof requires less energy in the manufacturing process, as well as in transporting materials from factory to jobsite.

    ArmorLite roofs, Lane says, originate from 85 percent recycled materials that are, in turn, 100 percent recyclable. The key ingredient is lightweight polymers that are strong enough to provide 50 years of useful life at a weight of just 3,500 pounds for a typical residential rooftop. This compares, he says, with 30,000 pounds for a conventional roof. Often, says Lane, because of its light weight, an ArmorLite roof can be installed over an existing conventional roof, thus eliminating removal waste altogether.

    ALAN RICHMAN, former editor of Whole Foods magazine, is a New Jersey-based freelance writer.

    SIP's (Structural Insulated Panels)

    Description: Structural Panels (SIP) are an energy efficient alternative to conventional framing. They are load bearing insulated panels used as walls, roofs, bump outs, and dormers in both residential and commercial buildings. Structural panels provide the exterior sheathing, insulation, and interior sheathing in one unit.

    Components: Foard Panels are manufactured with third party rated material and stringent quality control guidelines.

    Core Material: The insulating core material can either be Extruded or Expanded Polystyrene. Both are superior insulating materials with unique advantages for various situations.

    Interior and Exterior Skins: The skins are 7/16” thick, PS1-95, PS2-92, Exposure 1 Oriented Strand Board (OSB). Only OSB meets the dimensional stability, lamination quality, and size availability requirements.

    Features:
    • Reduces Heating and Cooling Costs
    • Superior Strength
    • Fast & Efficient Installation
    • Reduced Labor Costs

    Availability:
    • 4ft wide, lengths up to 24ft
    • Custom Pre-Cut Options
    • Milled Electrical Chases Available

    “Green” Building Material

    A “green” building should be constructed of materials that will last the life of the structure itself. Long-lasting construction is the essence of sustainability. The selection of green building materials should follow the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s admonition to balance the value of recycled content as a green attribute with other attributes that contribute to resource conservation and overall sustainability.

    While recycled content is the most obvious environmental benefit of a product, being truly green means using building materials that help reduce the environmental impacts associated with the extraction, transport, processing, reuse, recycling and disposal of source materials. To be truly environmentally beneficial, a product must be conceptualized, manufactured, packaged and transported to the jobsite in ways that minimize environmental damage and excel in conserving energy.

    Fiber glass and mineral wool insulations are inherently “green”; they conserve energy and significantly decrease the generation of harmful air pollutants to the atmosphere. In assessing the environmental impact of these products over their lifecycle, fiber glass and mineral wool insulations meet many, if not all, of the requirements for green building.